DIANA BANCALE
Founder and author, travel blogger since 2014.
Baja California Sur is one of the wildest and most fascinating states in Mexico. I visited in July on a completely DIY 10-day Baja road trip.
Taking advantage of the low season, I got to experience semi-desert landscapes, endless roads lined only with cactus, huge beaches without another soul in sight, and why not, some great deals on accommodations as well.
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Is Baja California Sur the right trip for you?
Baja California Sur isn’t a trip for everyone. Consider this destination only if you’re ready for:
Vast desert areas and sometimes harsh landscapes.
-Many roads that are unpaved sand tracks.
-No large all-inclusive resorts (aside from Cabo San Lucas); you’ll mostly find small hotels and apartments.
-Unreliable cell phone coverage (with no signal in some areas). Better get an unlimited data e-sim with Holafly to make sure to have a good coverage – GET IN HERE WITH 5% DISCOUNT
-Some places that do not accept credit cards (so have cash on hand).
-Occasional water outages (sometimes for hours).
-Mostly undeveloped beaches with no facilities.
-In summer, extremely high temperatures that make it nearly impossible to walk around from late morning until near sunset.
I recommend this journey to those who love nature, wild places, wildlife encounters, and silence. It’s a beautiful trip, I assure you, but one that requires a certain level of adaptability. However, it will reward you immensely with postcard-worthy landscapes and unforgettable memories.
Where is Baja California Sur?
For context, when I told people I was going to California, many assumed I meant a trip to the United States (I’ve done that too, and it was wonderful).
But Baja California Sur is actually one of the states of Mexico, located in the southern part of the long California Peninsula, between the Pacific Ocean and the Sea of Cortez (also known as the Gulf of California).
It borders to the north with the state of Baja California (Norte, whose capital is Tijuana) and is separated from mainland Mexico by the Sea of Cortez. The main cities in Baja California Sur include:
La Paz (the state capital)
Cabo San Lucas
San José del Cabo
Todos Santos
Loreto
How to get to Baja California Sur
The fastest way to reach Baja California Sur is by plane.
The main airports are La Paz (LAP) or Los Cabos International Airport (SJD) near San José del Cabo. You will generally have a layover in Mexico City or in the United States.
10-day Baja California Sur itinerary
In this article, I’ll share my 10-day itinerary in Baja California Sur. We chose a pace that wasn’t too hectic, and I also included a few surf spots to keep my boyfriend (who I was traveling with) happy which made me happy too, since I love beaches and the ocean.
Day 1 – Arrival in La Paz and dinner on the Malecón
We landed in La Paz and immediately picked up our rental car (booked via DiscoverCars) right at the airport.
Renting a car in La Paz
They gave us a very comfortable vehicle that was larger than expected, basically an SUV. In Baja California Sur, you’ll notice almost everyone drives big trucks or 4x4s, since there are many off-road sections and sandy roads. I highly recommend getting full coverage insurance (we added it through DiscoverCars) to avoid paying steep fees for any damage, even minor, to the car.
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Beaches near La Paz
La Paz has a great energy: distinctly mexican and lively, but with a slow, relaxed pace. We arrived in the morning and it was truly scorching hot, so we drove to Corumel Beach, about 10 minutes from the city center. The beach itself was nothing special (the water wasn’t very clear), but apparently in winter you can spot whales from there.
A much nicer beach near La Paz is Pichilingue, which has shallow, crystal-clear waters and lies on the road toward Balandra. For lunch, we went to Bismarkcito, a very popular restaurant with sea-view tables along the Malecón, where we had Gobernador tacos and ceviche — our first taste of Baja California cuisine.
La Paz famous “Malecon”
As soon as the sun eased a bit, we took a stroll along the Malecón (the seaside promenade) with its iconic statues. We saw people jogging, families walking, and cars blasting music. During the day the Malecón is almost empty because of the heat, but in the evening it turns into a sort of Ocean Drive (like in Miami).
The narrow streets in downtown La Paz hide quiet little plazas, the Nuestra Señora de La Paz cathedral, and local markets where you can discover the city’s most authentic side.
To enjoy the beautiful sunset over the bay, we stopped for a drink at Lapaz Lapa bar, which has a gorgeous sea view. For dinner we went right next door to Rancho Viejo, where for about €31 total (for two people) we enjoyed 4 dishes and 4 beers.
Where to stay in La Paz
Pick a hotel in the center so you can walk around in the evening without having to drive. I stayed at La Purisima Hotel, about a 10-minute walk from the Malecón. The rooms were very basic and pretty small, but it was excellent value for the price.
Day 2 – Playa Balandra and Playa Tecolote
In the morning we set out early (around 7 AM) to reach Playa Balandra, often considered the most beautiful beach in Mexico. I can’t say if it’s the very best, but it’s certainly spectacular: the view from above is so gorgeous it almost looks fake.
The water is crystal clear and the seafloor stays extremely shallow for a long distance, which lets you walk far out across the bays that make up the beach. The famous mushroom-shaped rock is a symbol of Balandra, so you’ll see people lining up to take a photo with it (I skipped the line!).
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Before heading down to the beach itself, I recommend parking your car and hiking up the hill overlooking the beach (about a 10-minute uphill walk) to admire Playa Balandra from above, with its multi-hued waters and the encircling mountains.
You can’t fly a drone here since it’s a protected area, but even with a phone camera you can capture beautiful panoramic shots from the viewpoint.
Once you’re on the beach, you’ll find a few free public umbrellas (they get snapped up quickly) and some basic facilities at the far end of the sand. That’s about it, so be sure to bring an umbrella, plenty of water, and anything else you might need for the day.
I also suggest wearing closed-toe shoes for the walk to the viewpoint, and water shoes for wading through the shallows.
How to reserve access to Playa Balandra
Since Playa Balandra is a protected area, daily entries are limited (450 people per day). You need to reserve your visit by purchasing a digital entry bracelet online (around €5 per person).
You can buy the bracelet here (scroll to the bottom of the page where it says “Compra brazalete de la conservación”). There are two entry time slots: 8:00–12:00 and 13:00–17:00.
You must arrive during one of those windows (expect a line of cars at the gate) and show your bracelet to be allowed in. At the end of your time slot, you have to leave the beach: the staff at the entrance will inform you of the exact exit time when you arrive.
Playa Tecolote
After visiting Balandra, we drove about 10 minutes over to Playa Tecolote. Here the sea is more open and the vibe is more local, there were even mariachi musicians playing next to the beach umbrellas. Since we went in the afternoon, the water was a bit rougher and not super clear, and it was very warm (as is normal in the summer).
But the best part of this long beach is the atmosphere. People park their campers right on the sand and spend entire days here, and there are plenty of casual restaurants and snack shacks along the beach where you can grab a bite or a cold drink.
Day 3 – Isla Espíritu Santo boat trip
This trip in Baja California Sur was an endless parade of natural wonders. One of the most memorable experiences was a tour to Isla Espíritu Santo, where we got to snorkel with sea lions (you can find details about the tour and book it here).
We departed at 9 AM from the La Paz Malecón on a small boat (fewer than 10 people) with a biologist guide who explained what we were seeing and the various bird, fish, and animal species we encountered. Our first stop was to observe blue-footed boobies (those famous birds with bright blue feet) on a rocky islet called Gaviotas.
Snorkeling with sea lions
Then we headed to the part I was most eagerly anticipating: the sea lions. As we approached the islet of San Rafaelito, we began to spot the plump silhouettes of several sea lions lounging on the rocks, resting and playing with each other.
The alpha male, much larger than the rest, patrolled the water, swimming back and forth around the perimeter. With caution and keeping a safe distance, we donned our masks and snorkels and slipped into the water near the islet.
We swam alongside the sea lions, which at times came close, gliding right below our feet. The water was a bit murky and greenish, but it was still thrilling to observe these creatures up close in their natural habitat.
Lunch on Espiritu Santo island
After our sea lion encounter, we made another stop to snorkel near a coral reef teeming with colorful fish. Then we headed to a deserted beach on Espíritu Santo island for lunch (included in the tour).
On the way back, we paused at a dreamy turquoise bay that was home to various bird species like frigatebirds and pelicans, and which once housed a pearl farm. This tour is truly special, and I highly recommend not missing it if you’re in the La Paz area.
Dinner at La Paz
Back in La Paz around 3 PM, we grabbed a fresh fruit smoothie at Cocos y Piñas Locas (a nice seaview stand specializing in fresh fruit). For dinner, we headed downtown to Claro Fish Jr., where we enjoyed a shrimp cocktail, octopus, and a scallop quesadilla, all accompanied by the ubiquitous spicy salsas.
Quick note: The Baja California take on Mexican cuisine is delicious, but if you’re not used to spicy food, be sure to let them know. Also, watch out for ice and tap water, as they can sometimes cause stomach troubles (I learned this the hard way)!
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Day 4 – From La Paz to Todos Santos
On the fourth day, we left La Paz and drove toward Todos Santos, an artsy town about an hour and a half away. The landscape started to change as we drove: the sea gave way to desert, with cacti as tall as towers lining long, straight roads that stretched to the horizon (often with no other cars in sight). Todos Santos turned out to be a delightful discovery.
It welcomed us with its art galleries, charming cafés and shops, and a laid-back, almost timeless atmosphere. Arriving at sunset made it even more magical.
The famous “Hotel California”
Wandering through the center, you’ll spot the famous Hotel California – perfect for a quick stop and a few photos. (Did you know there’s a legend that The Eagles were inspired by this very hotel when writing their iconic song? It appears to be just a myth, but the story is so popular that this hotel has become one of the most photographed spots in the area.)
Day 5 – Beach day and surfing at Cerritos Beach
Just a few kilometers from Todos Santos is Cerritos Beach, a spot beloved by surfers (you can catch waves here year-round) and also ideal for simply sunbathing or strolling along the shore.
We chose to stay here, renting an apartment with a kitchen only a few meters from the sand (we could reach the beach by simply opening the gate of the yard).
Where to stay at Cerritos Beach
Despite some initial hiccups: sandy roads with no signs, zero internet connection, and difficulty reaching our host this accommodation turned out to be one of the best choices of our trip.
We found ourselves with a little house almost oceanfront in the middle of nowhere, the beach literally at our doorstep where we could watch the sun sink into the water, and at night a starry sky that looked like a planetarium ceiling (no light pollution, no distractions).
Bonus: the four sweet dogs that lived on the property and came to greet us every morning. If this description made you curious, check out the accommodation we chose at Cerritos Beach!
Cerritos “beach village”
Thanks to the consistently good waves, a surfer community has sprung up at Cerritos Beach, complete with a makeshift village on the sand behind the beach. You’ll find food shacks, water refill stations, public bathrooms, bars, surf schools, and camper vans and trailers where the community lives. There’s a great youthful, carefree atmosphere here.
Surfing at Cerritos Beach
If you want to learn to surf, there are several schools offering lessons or boards for rent. For a bite to eat with your feet in the sand at Cerritos, I recommend Barracuda Cantina, where I devoured a delicious vegetarian burrito (it was excellent, though not very cheap, but hey, you’re on the beach). The ocean here packs a punch, but the beach itself is broad and never too crowded.
You can also rent an umbrella and loungers (around 400 pesos for one umbrella and two lounge chairs), which I highly advise, especially when the sun is as intense as it was in July. If you’re willing to explore further for surf, I suggest checking out the wild beaches of Pastora Beach and San Pedrito.
When I visited, they were beautiful and completely deserted; getting there involves driving several kilometers on pure sand roads, but it’s worth the adventure!
For dinner near Cerritos, we went to Paleta’s restaurant. It’s right off the main road, but from there we enjoyed a gorgeous ocean sunset and a very good meal.
Day 6 – Arrival in Cabo San Lucas
After our time at Cerritos Beach, and nearly two hours of driving, we reached Cabo San Lucas. This is the most popular city in Baja California Sur, especially among tourists from the United States who come for the big resorts, parties, bars, and clubs.
The city is definitely far more touristy and bustling than the places we’d been so far. But every now and then, I crave a bit of chaos and vibrant city life, especially after the quiet of places like La Paz and Cerritos. We took advantage of the day to relax and enjoy some comfort after so many days in “explorer mode.”
Luxury condo in Cabo San Lucas
We splurged on a luxurious apartment, a beautiful, fully equipped place in a condo that even had two rooftop pools. In the evening, we took our time getting ready, had dinner at our apartment, and then went out for drinks in the lively downtown area.
Our first stop was El Squid Roe, a club with a super-American style vibe. After that, we headed to a bar with an almost prophetic name “Tipsy Bar” which played all reggaeton music (my favorite!) and was filled with locals. Every once in a while, you need a night out like this to let loose, right?
Day 7 – Boat tour to the Cabo San Lucas arch
We started the day early, with the sun already heating up the morning air in Cabo. At 9 AM we embarked on a short but exciting boat tour (about one hour) to explore some of the area’s most iconic natural wonders.
The highlight was without a doubt El Arco de Cabo San Lucas: a spectacular rock arch carved by wind and waves, located right where the Pacific Ocean meets the Sea of Cortez.
During the ride we also cruised past Lover’s Beach (Playa del Amor), which is romantic and serene, and its opposite, Divorce Beach (Playa del Divorcio), which is wave-battered and wild, the contrast between the two pretty much lives up to their names!
BOOK HERE THE BOAT TOUR TO THE ARCH OF CABO SAN LUCAS
El Medano Beach
After the tour, we stopped at El Médano Beach, the most famous beach in Cabo. It’s perfect for relaxing with your feet in the sand and a fruit juice in hand, or for a refreshing swim in its calm waters. It’s also one of the most touristy areas, so it’s full of restaurants, bars, and souvenir shops.
In the afternoon, we made a strategic stop at Walmart for a quick grocery run, picking up fruit, snacks, and some supplies for the next few days, before heading back to our place to relax. We ended the day with a delicious dinner at La Ricazon, a restaurant overlooking El Médano.
The atmosphere was pleasant, the service attentive, and the dishes well prepared: fresh fish, excellent cocktails, and a varied menu. Prices were on the higher side, but justified by the quality and the location.
Read also: What to see in Cabo San Lucas
Day 8 – Beaches of the East cape
The day began with a small hiccup: no running water in our condo! But instead of letting it ruin our mood, we took it in stride and set off on a mini-adventure to the East Cape (the eastern coast of the peninsula).
After about an hour and 50 minutes of driving (meeting several wild donkeys), we reached Nine Palms and La Fortuna, two beaches beloved by surfers for their perfect waves and raw, wild vibe.
There are no resorts or crowds here, just golden sand, powerful surf, and a few vans parked right on the beach: the classic surf-trip spirit.
Day 9 – Strolling around San José del Cabo
After our day on the coast, we drove about 30 minutes over to San José del Cabo. San José is an oasis of tranquility, with a truly charming historic center: cobblestone streets, plazas filled with live music, art galleries, and elegant cafés that invite you to slow down and linger.
We stayed at Hotel Boutique Plaza Doradas, only 10 minutes from the city center and 20 minutes from Los Cabos Airport.
CHECK HERE HOTEL BOUTIQUE PLAZA DORADAS
That evening turned out to be one of the most enjoyable of the entire trip. We had dinner outdoors under strings of twinkling lights, soaking up an atmosphere that just makes you want to relax.
If you happen to be here on a Thursday, don’t miss the famous Art Walk, a weekly event where the galleries open late and local artists display their work in the streets. The energy is fantastic and it makes San José even more special.
Day 10 – Departure from Los Cabos
On the tenth and final day of my Baja California Sur tour, I didn’t wake up with the usual gloom that comes when a trip is over. But that was only because I wasn’t heading home yet, I was continuing my travels on to the Riviera Maya!
In any case, we had a very early start to get to the airport, return the car (with no worries or surprise charges thanks to the Full Coverage insurance), and catch our flight from Los Cabos back to Mexico City.
Useful tips for your Baja California Sur trip
What is the best time to visit Baja California Sur?
The ideal period to visit Baja California Sur is from November to April, when the weather is dry and pleasant, with temperatures between 20°C and 30°C (68–86°F). In particular:
January to March is the perfect season for whale watching.
February and March are great for snorkeling and swimming with sea lions.
April and May are ideal for enjoying the beaches, without too many tourists around.
From June to September (which is when I went) is the low season, and the climate is extremely hot and humid. It can be uncomfortable, but the advantage is you’ll encounter fewer crowds and lower prices.
Do I need a travel insurance to go to Baja California Sur?
It’s not mandatory, but I strongly recommend it, especially for a road trip like this, with off-road drives, outdoor adventures, and remote areas where medical assistance isn’t always nearby.
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How much does a trip to Baja California Sur cost?
Budget: Plan for roughly €80–100 per person per day for accommodation, food, and fuel if you’re traveling with a mid-range style. This, of course, can vary based on your travel style and exchange rates, but that was our average spending.
Where to stay in Baja California Sur?
Look for boutique hotels, rental apartments with kitchens, and the occasional rustic accommodation to fully experience the best of Baja California Sur.
We mixed it up between comfortable apartments and simpler stays, aiming for convenience and local charm over big resorts.
Check the best offers on the map below!
How to get around Baja California Sur?
The best way to explore the region is to rent a car. You can arrange one online (we used DiscoverCars), but be sure to opt for full coverage insurance to avoid any surprise expenses in case of damage to the vehicle. Having your own car gives you the freedom to reach remote beaches and towns at your own pace.
Currency and money matters
The local currency is the Mexican Peso (MXN). It’s wise to have some cash on hand (or withdraw from ATMs) because in small towns they don’t always accept credit cards.
Often, even when cards are accepted, there’s an extra fee, and tips (which are expected for many services) are generally given in cash. Exchange a bit of money or use an ATM when you arrive, so you’re prepared.
Is Baja California Sur safe?
Is Baja California Sur dangerous? In general, no, it’s actually one of the safest regions in Mexico. We always felt comfortable during our road trip.
Of course, you should follow the usual common-sense precautions as you would anywhere (don’t leave valuables unattended, be aware of your surroundings, etc.), but we didn’t encounter any issues and found the locals to be very warm and welcoming.
Internet and phone coverage
Cell signal can be weak or non-existent in some remote areas of Baja California Sur. It’s a good idea to download offline maps (e.g., on Google Maps) before your trip.
Read also: How to use the internet abroad, the best options for travelers (2025)
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